The happiest hour in London

The debate over the future of happy hours drones on in the corridors of power, with those who are critical, proclaiming that they create a nation of incapable drinkers.

Indeed a recent BBC Panorama programme reported on trouble from some dreary Northern town (Nottingham, if I remember rightly), indicting happy hours as a contributory factor to the troubles by encouraging its citizens to drink more booze. Perhaps the offenders consumed too much because they live in a dreary Northern town. Who knows?

I reckon the majority of happy hours are seen as opportunities for publicans to shift great stocks of alcopops - drinks which no sane person should knowingly be seen necking - rather than offering good quality, good-value drinks to people who might not have the budget to frequent style bars.

The happy hours at Covent Garden's new B@1 (currently Mon-Sat 6pm-8pm) offer what might work out to be the best deal in London. I say this because the cocktails are very good and the frugal pricing (£4.70 is the average full price) means that the twoforone offer is staggeringly cheap.

Denizens of Battersea and Richmond will already be familiar with B@1, which has been operating in Battersea Rise for the past six years and Petersham Road for three years. And this, their latest venue, mirrors the offer of the others with more than 150 different cocktails made with premium quality spirits. (Although Wyborowa is a quality vodka, its use in all the vodka-based cocktails smacks of commercialism rather than choosing the best vodka to suit each individual drink.)

Nevertheless, the menu happily includes many of the old classics alongside a bespoke range of house creations and a young team of staff were fully deployed behind the bar when I visited, handling their duties with both speed and aplomb - and a not insignificant amount of good humour and friendliness.

My Mojito was marvellous, the Cuban Pussy (a boy simply has to order a drink with a name like that) is an interesting mix of Havana Club rum, Grand Marnier, Chambord, raspberry liqueur with orange and apple juices.

A Poinsettia (triple sec orange liqueur with cranberry juice and champagne) was mildly disappointing, but champagne can be a fickle ingredient in cocktails, which is why Bellinis work better with prosecco. Beers are available by the bottle and these include Michelob, San Miguel, Budwar, Corona and Peroni. A limited wine list is offered - food is not available.

The simply accoutred environment is pubby rather than style bar and exuberant (loud music) rather than sophisticated, but this seems to be appreciated by the office workers of Covent Garden who frequent the place. And I am happy to report that, contrary to what the scaremongers believe, customers seemed to be enjoying their drinks rather than being intent on getting off their faces on cheap booze.

With its understated and quality offering, B@1 is a uniquely avantgarde concept that is set to become a leading light on the West End's social stage. I look forward to going back again and sampling the pleasures of what might be the world's first cocktail pub.