The Han that feeds you

There is something worryingly grubby about eating your dinner off a crushed velvet "tablecloth" - you can't just give it a spray with the Dettox afterwards.

Though recently opened, Han Of Nazz (love it) has a dusty air thanks to the exuberance of the furnishings: it's like an explosion in a Berwick Street off-cuts emporium.

Every surface is draped with satins and velvets, all with the sizzly quality of the finest man-made fibres.

In this pseudo-decadence, we're offered "authentic neo-Ottoman cuisine". Eh?

Isn't that a contradiction in terms? Anyway, I couldn't discern much of a difference between what we ate here and any other less pontificating establishment.

The food is perfectly fine: fresh, springy pide bread served with a mixed hot and cold meze

("Don't order it for two," advised our helpful waiter) silky hoummus, herbed yoghurt cacik; fasulya - green beans in a soupy tomato sauce; and much more.

Borek were fresh, fried pastry cigars stuffed with cheese; midye were rather weaselly mussels in batter; falafel, sadly, were cremated.

Mixed grill - kofte, chicken, shish and lamb cutlet - had lost that seductively smoky quality delivered by the best ocakbasi grilling, but did the job.

And it's cheap - not Green Lanes cheap - but, hey, it comes with crushed velvet.

The Han of Nazz
4 Calvert Avenue, E2 7JP