Who runs it: Mark van der Goot.
The vibe: slick and a little formal, but the food is where the action is and even chefs like Gordon Ramsay and Mark Sargeant vouch for it.
What to eat: grilled asparagus with home-made ricotta, slow-dried tomato and poached egg, and lamb neck fillet with purple sprouting broccoli, aubergine and shallot. Two courses £27, three £31.
What to drink: Leffe, Stella and Grolsch, and the 40-page wine list is one of the best of any gastropub in London.
Best time to go: weekday evenings.
The facts: 136 Battersea High Street, SW11. Tel: 020 7978 7021. Nearest station: Clapham Junction BR.