The food and view are beautiful

It's the women that pass by the Berkeley Square Cafe that find me recommending it so often. It's hard to decide which is better, the view of the street or your plate.

If Andy Williams had music to watch girls by, Berkeley Square chef Steven Black has the menu to match. Open for a year now, I'm convinced it's one of the West End's bestkept secrets, always busy and lively but, unlike Zuma, without all the naff glitz.

I spend two or three lunchtimes a week here while I've been working on a book of proprietor Vince Powers's life. Vince is better known as the boss of the Mean Fiddler, the entertainment company.

Although people are out to enjoy the food and atmosphere, there's a sense of discretion whereby diners don't feel the need to blab off about their latest deal, Rolex or hooker.

The restaurant has a no-photographs policy after an early press shot caught two business rivals dining covertly to discuss a merger. Since then the acting crowd, business set and visitors to Mayfair have continued to enjoy the restaurant with the knowledge that they won't be plastered all over the papers. For that, they can pop next door to Cipriani or a block away to Claridges.

For me, there is no better place to watch beautiful women going about their business. I apologise if this may dismay any feminist out there but - and I'm sure the same goes for women too - there's nothing better to improve the food than being surrounded by the beautiful people.

And the food, as I mentioned, is very good. It's not a cafe at all, but a dining room with subdued pastel tones and a real sleek, minimalist feel. The daily set lunch costs an unbelievably reasonable £19.95 for an exceptionally good three courses.

When I dined there this week, with my friend Jason, he described his Cornish crab risotto starter and Orkney lamb main as the best meal he'd had in a long time, and this from a man who works for Richard Branson.

The crab risotto is certainly worth noting. It comes with a plum-tomato sorbet and the unusual combination of the chilled vegetable and the rice makes for a genuine surprise. It's saying: "Go on, I dare you to try me." And it's well worth it every time.

The desserts are also worth saving room for, particularly the chocolate mousse with strawberries and strawberry sorbet which always shuts up the diners until they quickly finish. I have twice opted for the "tasting of raspberries" - this sounds like something you might do in a hedge but is far less sticky or prickly.

It's essentially children's food delivered in style. Different raspberry sorbets, mousses and fruit are presented on a large square plate with a confidence which tells you it's going to be good.

A gambling man by nature, with this Vince has backed another winner.