The Dogfather, SE22 - review

Finding a great burger in London has never been easier, but there is another US import which is harder to come by: the decent hot dog.

British versions generally consist of sweet, spongy buns and rubber sausages, drowned in cheap ketchup. But at the top of North Cross Road Market in Dulwich - a short walk from East Dulwich station - the classic street food has been reincarnated, gourmet style.

The self-styled "Dogfather", Cooper Deville, can be found at his pop-up stall every Saturday, standing behind a flame patterned tablecloth and cactus lamps. His buns are freshly baked, his sausages 100 per cent beef and there's a selection of delicious and unusual toppings, all lovingly prepared as Blue, Cooper's dog (below), watches on.

The menu is as kitsch as the decor. Current specials include: The Snoop Dog, with streaky bacon and barbecue sauce, or the Dogfather Dog with melted mozzarella and hot, thick chorizo slices. Everything is fresh and locally sourced and many of the sauces are home-made, including the corn mayo and red pepper sauce.

I tried the latter. Every ingredient was cooked to perfection, the sausage juicy and flavoursome, the chorizo hot, thick and melt-in-the-mouth. Even the mozzarella, though odd paired with sausage, worked well. The bun was real bread - it was fresh, thick, wholesome and just right for supporting the healthy portion of fillings and the delicious sauce.

If that's not enough, Cooper also tailor-makes special extras for his customers. Having brought a vegetarian with me, Cooper happily made us a meat-free version of his Cactus Dog, with guacamole, peppers and cactus leaves.

It takes two days for Cooper to prepare for each day of trading, and it's his attention to detail that makes these hot dogs so brilliant. Our Dogfather claims to have turned down bigger gigs simply because he believes in the quality of each meal, not the quantity sold. According to him, it's repeat customers that make him and his canine accomplice happiest.

I will certainly be returning.

The Dogfather
North Cross Road Market, North Cross Road, SE22