The capital's best kebabs

Once the sole preserve of late night drinkers, the kebab has had a makeover and is now the choice of cosmopolitan Londoners. Bella Blissett reveals who's serving up the most delicious doners...

Shish
71 Bishops Bridge Road, W2 (020 7229 7300), also at 313 Old Street, EC1 and 2 Station Parade, NW2. All open: Mon-Fri 11am-midnight, Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-11pm
The first Shish opened in Willesden Green in 2001. The atmosphere is informal as diners sit in one of the open-plan brasserie-style restaurants and watch the chefs in action.

Maroush
21 Edgware Road, W2 (020 7723 0773) Open every day noon-2am
The original Maroush, now joined by many branches elsewhere.

Best Mangal
104 North End Road, W14 (020 7610 1050) Open noon-midnight
This is said by Turkish specialists to be the best kebab this side of Istanbul. A cosy restaurant where you sit around a charcoal "ocak" (barbecue). Ingredients fresh and staff friendly but it's tough to get a table. The Áp shish, three skewers of lamb cubes with lettuce and red cabbage, is a favourite.

Noura
22 Lower Regent Street, SW1 (020 7839 2020), also at 16 Curzon Street, W1 and 16 Hobart Place, SW1. Open Mon-Sat 12.30-4pm, 6pm-1.30am
Owned by top Istanbul restaurateur, Metin Fadillioglu, the Noura is a favourite with "west London trendies" who like the Bedouin-tented ceiling and Ottoman furniture. Chef David Jones offers a wide variety of Ottoman mezze.

Crystal Charcoal House
522 Holloway Road, N7 (020 7281 2846) Open 10am-4am
Shish kebabs are treated to a charcoal roasting and are a generous size for less than £5. Popular for its mixed social crowd and delicious ayran yoghurt drink.

Gallipoli
120 Upper Street, N1 (020 7359 0630) Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-11pm (Fri-Sat until midnight)
Lebanese, Turkish and Mediterranean food, Gallipoli is famed for its friendly staff and the Turkish disco that gets many visitors up onto the tables. Amazingly fresh ingredients and a varied selection of skewers are available.

Lahore Kebab House
2 Umberston Road, E1 (020 7488 2551) Open noon-midnight
A legendary, unpretentious Pakistani kebab house with simple succulent skewers. A kebab feast for under £10.

Souvlaki & Bar
140 St John Street, EC1 (020 7253 7234) Open Mon-Sat noon-11pm
Greek, great value and top quality. A short menu but order a kebab and you get hot flatbread with tzatziki and tomato purÈe. In Greece, souvlaki changes seasonally so when pork is at its best, kebabs are pork and when lamb comes to the fore, they are in lamb. Chicken skewers can be enjoyed at the narrow tables beside the open-plan kitchen.

Haz
9 Cutler Street, E17 (020 7929 7923) Open 11.30am-11.30pm
Traditional Turkish (lamb) but a variety of fish dishes too. Portions are generous. The tables are pushed together in rows, so you are likely to end up sitting next to a stranger.