The best five pubs

THE BISHOP'S FINGER 9-10 West Smithfield, EC1 (020 7248 2341) is a fine old Victorian pub, long known for its Kentish ales and now also for its outstanding food. The Victorians would be surprised to find that a good stretch of the bar counter is now the province of a chef producing an extraordinary range of food.

Is O'CONOR DON, 88 Marylebone Lane, W1 (020 7935 9311) the best Irish pub in London? You can stand at the marble bar counter and watch them slowly, lovingly pour the Guinness, or if you sit down they'll bring your drink to your table and grand Irish food as well. A dozen Irish oysters and a pint of the good stuff and you'll be ready for whatever Marylebone has in mind for you.

THE OLD DISPENSARY, 19a Leman Street, E1 (020 7702 1406) was built by public subscription in 1858 to treat the poor in the heart of the East End. Its work was long since done, hence its recent transformation into this splendid and unexpected pub. You'll find it in Aldgate East.

THE SALT HOUSE , 63 Abbey Road NW8 (020 7328 6626) When the Beatles were recording at the Abbey Road studios this nice corner pub was the Belgrave Arms. It became the Salt House quite recently, and is enjoying a new lease of life with its classy food cooked before your eyes. Don't forget to use the pedestrian crossing, of course.

SETTLE INN , 186 Battersea Bridge Road, SW11 (020 7228 0395) Another change of name, another rejuvenated pub. The Rising Sun became the Settle Inn and its youthful new look has been a great success. The food is too - modish new menus are chalked up daily on the blackboard.