He writes in the introduction: "You desperately need to make a quick decision so do you (a) go for the cheapest house white, even if you know that it's going to taste like you've licked the back of a thousand envelopes, (b) ask the sommelier (assuming there is one), (c) go for something safe like Sancerre, or (d) try to go it alone and choose something that you think will be interesting and good value?"