Sweet treat? Just call me Sugar Daddy

Further north, but still in the dark wastelands of Haymarket, I found another newcomer, OSIA. This smart and modern restaurant is in what I presume was once a bank. Best of all is a beautiful bar that cannot be seen from the street, which is presumably why it was quiet the night we went, unlike the busy dining room.

My companions weren't business, though could have been mistaken for trade. Three pretty young men from South Africa. Table for four, please, booked in the name of Sugar Daddy.

This evening was a great success but, again, if you aren't off the telly maybe you won't get the complimentary range of ceviches and savoury cocktails or the unordered chocolate soup with vanilla and pepper ice-cream - worth the trip for this alone.

My favourite South African wine, Springfield Estate special cuvée sauvignon blanc, made me very happy indeed. I even allowed my companions to have a bit - I worry what their mothers will think.

After the triumphant selection of freebies, people weren't that interested in their starters. This turned out to be just as well. Zucchini flowers with some sort of goat curd didn't look great and my native mussels were fairly chewy and at least half were unopened. More wine please.

Now another pitfall in reviewing a restaurant is when all three of your companions order the same thing. I would have asked them to change their order but I didn't want any sulking to spoil the evening.

The good news is that they loved their veal. I'm sure I saw the waiter smirk when they all ordered it - they might well have smiled and asked for chicken.

I chose the pan-fried halibut and it was terrific. The wild-lime cream was just tart enough, though the vegetables were a bit more "al dente" than I would have chosen. Special mention to the kumera mash, a sort of New Zealand sweet potato - I should like to fall asleep face down in a big bowl of it.

I liked this restaurant. It is smart, takes the business of eating seriously but still manages to be fun and sexy.

I do hope others enjoy both these restaurants (see Mint Leaf review) as much as I did, but, if not, let me urge you to forge a career in broadcasting and try them again.

Osia
11 Haymarket, SW1Y 4BP