Sum-thing tasty going on in W1

This review was published in March 2002

This is a restaurant of contradictions. It's been sliced off from the wine bar next door by a wall of glass; we felt as though we were silently conjoined to the table on the other side - an uncomfortably intimate experience.

The decor's a bit of a collision between high-gloss (beautiful dark wood furniture, elegant square plates, flattering lighting) and handknitted (wall adornments of round-spot mirrors which appear to have been painted by a five-year-old; funny little balsawood 'klick sticks' - easy-use chopsticks).

These, and the rather cringeworthy pun in the name let you know what you're in for: evolved dim sum, basically. (Although, in an unusually reactionary fit, I'm inclined to think something as delicious as dim sum doesn't really need an evolution.)

What that means is bijoux, orientally-inspired dishes (there are Thai and Japanese touches) in a location and surroundings for those intimidated by Chinatown. The food is rather fine: seared tuna rolls with nori and ginger were sumptuous, fresh, zingy bites; lion-head chicken both tender and crunchy with liquoricey five-spice; a fluffy rice-flour bun was stuffed with sweetish Chinese sausage, egg and boasted HP as a dipping sauce; crispy duck came ready assembled in excellent pancakes.

Only devils on horseback (rubbery prawn mousse wrapped in flabby bacon) and prawn dumplings (rather inferior to the ubiquitous Chinatown har kau) disappointed. And, at about £25 a head without wine for a modest selection, you'll pay sumwhat more than you would in Gerrard Street.

Sumplace
52 Dorset Street, W1