Splendid, no-nonsense charm

There's something very charming about the small Gujarati cafes that quietly go about their business feeding lots of people: their food is wholesome, prices are spectacularly low, and the atmosphere invariably cheery.

Dadima is a relative newcomer to the stretch of Ealing Road that snakes through Alperton on its way up to Wembley. The resto joins a real old-timer, Maru's Bhajia House, and another newbie, Chowpatty - it's as if they have cluster together for moral support. That suits the customers because, if one is full, there is always an alternative to hand.

Inside, Dadima is clean and business-like - the chairs are modernist to the point where they are not perhaps as comfortable as might be wished, but this is a splendidly no-nonsense place.

The starters and snacks are very good. Panni puri are small, delicate and savoury, with flavours well-balanced. Simply load a teaspoon of the sharp sauce into each small flying saucer and devour them whole. Sweet and sharp, chewy, crunchy and indulgent all at the same time. For something a bit spookier, try the khichi.

This is a strange dish, with a strange texture - it is basically a very solid rice flour sludge; you dress each mouthful with a little oil and then some finely ground hot red pepper. It sticks to the roof of your mouth like fudge.

Kachori are much more accessible, small balls, crisp outside and with a core of spicy lentil mix. Very satisfying with a dollop of the sweet-sharp tamarind sauce. The methi bhajia are also good, small ball-shaped patties, green with fresh methi and adeptly fried so that they are very dry.

Onwards towards some main courses, but to go à la carte you must first discount the thalis which look very tempting. There is a certain smug reliability about calling up a thali for a penny under £5 and getting puris, three vegetables, salad, pappadums, plain rice, dal and raita.

The main course dishes here are also very good - palak paneer is a smooth spinach puree with a few chunks of chewy cheese scattered through it. Or try the dal makhn, a rich stew with black lentils, and kidney beans, the makhani part is floating on the top - a large lump of butter.

Stir the butter into the dish, enjoy! It is really rich and really fattening. Another dish that's a simple crowd-pleaser is the paneer tikka masala, a light, tomatoey sweet sauce with ubiquitous chunks of cheese. Even discerning diners who avoid chicken tikka masala will be happy with this inoffensive veggie alternative.

With your main courses pile into the breads which are very delicious here, although they may look slightly on the small side - until you note the really low prices. The paratha is good, the alu paratha made delightfully sludgy by a stuffing of mashed potato is very good indeed. The methi thepla has flecks of green methi and is fried crisp. The rottala is a thin millet bread. Best advice is to order one of everything and then reprise whichever you like the best.