Spicy shot in the arm at Chula

This review was first published in July 2001

As we left, practically half the staff of Chula lined up to shake our hands and make us promise to come back. You're not going to say no, are you? Fortunately, no crossing of fingers was necessary: we will certainly return.

Not that Chula doesn't have its flaws. Chief among these is the decor. Massive slate floor tiles, white walls and whitewood bring a contemporary Soho feel. Sadly, they also bring bedlam; my companion and I could hardly hear each other across our small table. And I mean small: we had to clear our water and wine bottles off to make room for starters, which meant a waiter whisked away all our empty glasses, thinking we'd finished with them. Confusion reigned.

But forget about that; the food was exquisite. A laser-printed menu simply lists the dishes: chicken tikka masala, tandoor sampler, tiger prawns with saffron rice, garlic nan, etc. The dishes are left to do their own talking. A Parsee lamb curry was as good as I've ever tasted, so tender I think it actually was lamb - surely a first? Tiger prawns were juicy and subtly spiced, breads were light and flavoured with fresh herbs.

Wines and cocktails have been carefully chosen and the prices are more than reasonable. Hammersmith has had a shortage of good eateries but Chula is a spicy shot in the arm for the area.

Chula
King Street, London, W6 0QP