Spam's back on the menu

In shabby Shepherd's Bush, most of the greasy spoons have been usurped by even greasier chicken and kebab joints, so I am pleased to report that one old school nosherie, Harris Caferest, complete with veneered tables, bentwood chairs and net curtains, has survived and still serves Spam fritters, bolied (sic) bacon and cabbage and apple pie with gloopy custard, dished up by bustling Cypriot ladies.

The interior, a palette of browns, bile and Band Aid pink, looks curiously contemporary, but the punters remain reassuringly archaic. I swig my 40p cuppa and observe a trio of ageing Northern van drivers - think David Bellamy, Bernard Manning and The Incredible Hulk - who are discussing their jaunt to The Big Smoke.

'I'm going out on't pull oop Soho tonight,' volunteers David. 'Eee lad, the only thing thee'll be pulling,' retorts Bernard, 'is t'skin of that rice pudding'. Hulk nods in agreement, while a chastened David scowls at his dessert...

Harris Caferest
36 Goldhawk Road, W12 8QQ