So-so Spanish food and so little service

"Our mission" said Camino's marketing blurb, "is to put King's Cross on the map." They should first put themselves on the map. "Varnisher's Yard" I told the cabbie I hailed, after A to Z and Googlemap both failed me. As did he and the other baffled cabbies he asked. We eventually found this Spanish restaurant in a business centre near the main station. The standard exposed brick and wood look didn't really zing.

Still, a lively office party jollied up the vibe. On the concept menu dishes were scattered along a wiggly path drawn through Spain. Our grumpy waitress wasn't much help with the map reading, not even bothering to wait until my friend was back from the loo to explain it all. For starters we had Jamon Iberico (made from pigs bred on acorns and matured for 30 months) - £14.50 - and a charcoal-grilled veg affair on toast for £5.90, both very average.

Perhaps we should have just stuck with bar snacks, which are reportedly very good. As you'd expect in a Spanish joint, steak was the main event, and actually it was pretty good. Our £18.50 fillet of Aberdeen was supposed to come with seasonal asparagus, so we were surprised to find only a few bruised potatoes. Again, we didn't get much joy from the waitress when we enquired as to where the asparagus had got to.

The steak felt a bit lonely without any sauce: so we washed it down with a hearty Spanish red from a well-chosen list, £12 and upwards.

They also serve Asturian cider, poured in the traditional way from two metres up - it's quite a spectacle. If you do come here, grab a fun crowd of mates - it'll distract from the so-so food. Camino does mean "path", but we won't be beating one back.

Camino
3 Varnishers Yard, Regent Quarter, N1 9NR