Slick and kitsch in Camden

You don't often see pub signs and windows backlit with neon pink, especially a pub housed in a building dating back to 1843. But the recently overhauled Camden Brewing Company, now The Camden Arms, gets away with it - it's in keeping with the pub's style-bar-meets-gastro-pub-meets-boozer feel.

The bright, square bar planted bang in the middle of the rectangular pub, with cocktail-and-wine dominated drinks menus dotted around the granite bar, shouts style. As do exotic cocktails such as Wild Forest Mojito and Strawberry Caipirosca (both £5.50), which are gamely attempted and more than acceptable.

The lounge area is more of the same, although more kitsch than slick, with modern leather sofas, floral print wallpaper, a chaise longue and wrought iron spiral staircase.

The gastro pub area, boasting a heartening real fire, serves solid, steady food, including pork and ale sausages and apple mash (£7.50) - ideal winter comfort fare. It's lacking for veggies, though: the goat's cheese and roast vegetables in pesto dressing is tasty, if unbalanced, and the only vegetarian main.

The boozer element is down to the staff. We inquire what lager is available and we're informed: 'Stella, Kronenbourg and Hoegaarden, but you don't want to drink the Hoegaarden, it's expensive.'

Later, idle chit chat reveals a party was thrown to launch The Camden Arms. 'Dido came - you know, she's no oil painting. Honestly, she's ugly,' beams the bar woman smugly.

1 Randolph Street NW1. Tel: 020 7267 9829. www.thecamdenarms.com Tube: Camden Town

The Camden Arms
1 Randolph Street, NW1 0SS