My friend declared her puy lentil veloute with bacon puree and poached egg (£7.50) heaven - until she took a forkful of her main. "Mmm, that is beautiful," she sighed, polishing off the seasonal signature dish: roasted hare with root vegetables (£17.95). Tucking into my velvety haunch of venison, pumpkin and orange purÈe with port sauce (£19.95), I pitied any vegetarian: there's no option for them on this hearty winter menu.