Save the date: 1492

Political correctness has encouraged us not to extol the year Columbus 'discovered' America: cocking a snook at such delicate sensibilities, however, this Fulham restaurant makes it something very definitely worth celebrating.

Although things got off to an unpromising start - 'I've booked!' I say, brightly; 'Yeah?' replies the barman with a what-do-I-care sneer, then proceeds to put us on the worst positioned table in this cosy candle-lit space - it turned out to be a delight.

We angsted over what to choose for ages: finally plumping for starters of chicken empanadas (tiny pasties stuffed with a solidly meaty filling) and Peruvian prawn chupe soup with Chilean humita (delicious, packed with veg and warming tamale).

My main of tiger prawns in banana curry (a rather steep £13) was sensational: zingy, sweet and hot without the natural flavours of its main ingredients being overpowered.

Star of the show, though, was moqueca with vatap· - the traditional Brazilian dish of fish stew with coconut milk, served with spicy shrimp purèe. Less a stew and more a whole piece of fish, this was a riot of tropical flavours, with the purèe adding an unusual and very moreish texture.

With coconut rice and Yuca (cassava) fries, we shouldn't have had room for dessert, but we squeezed in a plate of Tres Leches - a lighter example of this sponge-cake-and-threemilk extravaganza than I've had before, but brilliant comfort food all the same. Live pan pipe and guitar music was an added bonus - we could quite happily have stayed put 'til lights out.

1492
404 North End Road, SW6 1LU