Sardinian-flavoured sweetie

There's little to draw you into Terranostra unless recommended (thanks, Henry): low-rent block of shops, unappealing frontage, an interior that looks like it's been done on the cheap. But such shallowness would mean missing a genuine treat.

Because what's been saved on fixtures and fittings has been lavished on suppliers and the kitchen. A board heaving with a selection of cheeses and salumi was equal to anything I've eaten here or in Italy: velvety, pungent bresaola (cured beef), coppa (dry-cured pork shoulder), crema di pecorino - an almost liquid, silky ewe's cheese dolloped on rosemary-scented carta di musica (Sardinian crispbread). Rosy slices of tuna 'tartare' - er, no actually - were similar to the bresaola in texture, suggesting more curing, but with a fish-fragranced tang.

Lorighitas - grooved rings of pasta - were dressed in vivid, grassy pesto and studded with queenies, weeny tender scallops. No sign of the promised aubergine, though. Chewy dots of fregola, the chunky Sardinian take on couscous (some grains toasted, some not), came with a deeply flavoured soupy sauce of mussel stock and olive oil, with courgettes, mussels and (the only bum note) slightly tough prawns.

Staff are as switched-on as the cooking: helpful and welcoming - a mirto (vaguely medicinal myrtle liqueur) was offered on the house as digestivo. A Sardinian-flavoured sweetie.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £70. 27 Old Bailey EC4. Tel: 020 3201 0077. Tube: Blackfriars/St Paul's

Terranostra
Old Bailey, London, EC4M 7HS