Running like Clockwork

Clockwork is the reincarnation of Moloko, a five-minute wonder on the site of Finca, a longrunning Spanish joint which, like Costa Brava package hols, had gone tapas-t its sell-by date.

Under the very same ownership, the current refurb retains a Latin flavour upstairs, where a dance floor hosts salsa and merengue evenings on Tuesdays and Sundays, with jazz/funk and bossa on other nights.

The ground floor is a high-ceilinged space, intelligently remodelled with a handsome bar, picture windows, comfy retro furniture, pinball, baby foot and a good rags and mags selection.

Clockwork has the feel of an early Shoreditch warehouse, before that area took itself too seriously. Bar staff were laid-back and on-the-ball.

We couldn't resist a shot at tuck shop shots - vodkas infused with sherbet lemon, Refreshers or pear drops, amongst several others.

The acquired taste of a Marmite flavour option still eludes me, as it was soldout. We switched to bargain (£4.95) vodka Martinis from a full range of premium brands - all flawlessly executed, although a Smirnoff Norsk version, with a whiff of bubble bath about it, is one to avoid.

Snacks, limited to crisps and nuts, need a rethink, but a 3am licence ensures my business. Now, bring on the Marmite, boys.

Clockwork, 96-98 Pentonville Road N1. Tel: 020 7837 5387. Tube: Angel