Return of the natives...

It's September, and for oyster lovers, that means one thing: the start of the native oyster season. The native - flat, flavoursome, dredged from wild stocks rather than farmed - is in season only during months with an R in the name.

From April to August, the oysters are spawning, which makes the meat smaller and the taste watery and bland.

Rock oysters, on the other hand, are cultivated. Bred to be sterile, they avoid the spawning season and are available all year round. There are many types of oyster, all with different sizes and tastes. With our guide to help you, the only decisions left are whether to accompany them with Tabasco or shallot vinegar and Guinness or champagne?

Kumamoto
Kumamoto has long been the nameto-drop Stateside. These Pacific oysters are finally catching on here as they're now being farmed in the UK. The size of a 50p piece, they have a beautiful, woody flavour. Former Nobu chef Tomanari Chiba's cool Marylebone sushi bar, Dinings, often serves them plain, at £2.50 a pop, or with caviar, at £7.50 each.
Dinings, 22 Harcourt Street, W1 (020 7723 0666)

Tsarskaya
Named after the wife of the 17thcentury tsar for whom they were imported to Russia, these fully flavoured plump rock oysters come from the waters of Cancale in Brittany. When Cancaleborn chef Pascal Proyart reopened One-O-One last month, he naturally put his home town's finest on the menu. After all, they've just won gold at a leading French food competition. Try them chilled with shallot vinaigrette, or with achingly trendy yuzu sorbet and vodka foam or soy wasabi pipettes (£8 for three).
One-O-One, 101 Knightsbridge, SW1 (020 7290 7101)

Fine de Claires
Rock oysters from Marennes-Oléron in south-west France are refined in a "claire" (clay-bottomed bed) for texture and sweetness. Enjoy the mineral aftertaste and nutty flavour, especially with the wonderful Spéciale de Claire Premier Cru and Extra Spéciale de Claire. The rare, delicate Pousse en Claire arrives at Wright Bros in November.
Wright Bros, 11 Stoney Street, Borough Market, SE1 (020 7403 9554)

Papillon
These diddy French rock oysters, also from Marennes-Oléron, offer a straightfromthe sea briny burst. They're a sweet creamy version of the spéciale, though perhaps a touch saltier. Find these prettily named bivalves at (£8/half dozen) at Scott's, London's most beautiful oyster bar, alongside their big sisters, the Spéciale de Claire Premier Cru (£12.75/dozen).
Scott's, 20 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1 (020 7495 7309)

Rossmore
Irish oysters are among the best in the world, says Fernando Stovell, chef at The Cuckoo Club. He serves Rossmore rock and native oysters from the clear waters of Cork for their consistent quality, creamy flesh and generous-size. Order them chilled on salt (not ice) with ginger, shallot and champagne vinegar, green or red Tabasco, or with champagne foam: £14/nine rock oysters.
The Cuckoo Club, Swallow Street, W1 (020 7287 4300)

Duchy of Cornwall natives
From Cornwall's Helford River, these natives have delicious meat with good mineral flavours. Note they're even better later in the season. The Bluebird restaurant in Chelsea is including them on its oyster and champagne menu until 31 October. Best enjoyed with a dash of lemon and a glass of champagne. £10.75/half dozen.
Bluebird, 350 King's Road, SW3 (020 7559 1000)

Frenchman's Creek
Named after the Daphne du Maurier novel, these pretty, frilled sweet rock oysters, have a distinctive Cornish mineral taste. On the list at Bentley's, London's most charming oystershuckers, they're good with half a Guinness or a glass of Picpoul de Pinet. £9.50/half dozen.
Bentley's, 11-15 Swallow Street, W1 (020 7734 4756)