9 Phene Street, SW3 (020-7352 3294). This was George Best's hangout during his drinking days. It was always a delightfully tatty, traditional pub, and much loved by locals. However, it recently got a contemporary makeover that has divided opinion in this hostile-to-change part of town. Smooth, clean surfaces and pale pastels have replaced the old-fashioned interior, and plasma screens take pride of place on the walls. The beer garden remains an attractive feature, but there are no longer any ales, sadly. See Gastropubs, page 36.