Reigning outside of Spain

Claridges and the likes aside, hotel restaurants can often be a rather sterile affair, and it's hard to pull in the punters without Ramsay's reputation. It's no wonder then that L'Albufera is shouting so loudly about being awarded Best Spanish Restaurant Outside of Spain by the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries.

This little corner of Spanish cooking excellence is tucked away in the Melia Hotel a few minutes stroll from Regent's Park. Huge wide-rimmed vases full of black pebbles and rose heads sit on top of impeccably dressed tables as equally well-turned out waiters glide across a floor that has been polished to within an inch of it's life.

The menu has been revamped and is an extensive offering of tapas, paellas, and the like. Our choice of tapas was a mixed affair. The Cabrales cheese and apple served on a crispy fresh herb toast was tangy and sharp and complimented by tasty fresh basil but the cod fritters and chicken croquettes were fairly plain, with little seasoning or distinguishable flavouring.

The main courses were rather more elaborate and an impressive sea bass took centre stage. Baked whole, it arrived at our table fresh from the oven and caked in a huge mound of hot sea salt, which the waiter proceeded to carefully chip away. Once revealed, the fish was skinned, de-boned and presented alongside a colourful row of diced vegetables and bitter grapefruit - worth the leap in blood pressure levels from the sudden rush of sodium.

Style seemed to have won over substance with the baby lamb though. Piled high on a bed of crispy potato, the meat was well-cooked but lacked flavour and the liquidised slither of peas was pretty to look at but wasn't so appealing for the tastebuds.

For sugar junkies, the dessert cabinet full of perfectly-sculpted puddings such as feather-light meringues and thick, rich chocolate tarts served with cream and berry sauce will prove to be a great pull but you may want to hold back on the sweet stuff when you catch sight of the impressive cheese table.

Groaning under the weight of dozens of varieties of Spanish cheeses, it is ferried back and forth between tables by two robust young waiters who carve out your choice of moreish morsels, along with slices of thin celery, black grapes and cubes of quince. You'll struggle to make your selection but, at £7.95 for a healthy-sized platter, it's worth going back for more.

L'Albufera
Albany Street, London, NW1 3UP