Rare treat with second helpings

By the time we got round to visiting Haché (pronounced 'ashay' - French for 'chopped'), it already had other publications frothing at the gills about its Aberdeen Angus burgers.

Sadly, I found myself dyspeptically unimpressed: my 'Catalan' burger came with hard, plasticky chorizo sausage and a slick of tomato and chilli jam that was sickly sweet. The meat itself just didn't make much of an impression.

But the place is as cute as a button: all pale tongue and groove walls, cleverly placed mirrors and twinkly chandeliers. I liked it so much that I went back for seconds. As before, it was bursting at the seams with a funky, very young crowd lured by the cool vibe and the giveaway prices.

This time, I ordered a plain burger. Rare. And when this version arrived, I understood what all the fuss was about. The meat was great: juicy, beefy and charred from the grill, the ciabatta-ish rolls are floury and pillowy and the frites are first rate. Their onion rings are an addictive mix of crispiness and grease.

It wouldn't surprise me if this Camden branch, on the delightfully grungy Inverness Street, becomes the first of a small chain. It's a simple concept to replicate and would fit in anywhere it landed. And I reckon it deserves its success.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £50. 24 Inverness Street NW1. Tel: 020 7485 9100. Tube: Camden Town

Hache
Inverness Street, London, NW1 7HJ