Quo's too quiet, but tastes terrific

In the Nineties this Marco Pierre White joint was the epitome of Soho cool. A joint venture with Damien Hirst, who filled it with his unappetising YBA art, its stark interior was closer to a mad scientist's lab than relaxing dining room. No more.

It has been taken over by Sam and Eddie Hart, the brothers who have made a roaring success of Fino and Barrafina.

Refurbished in tan leather, the blandly smart interior now feels like stepping into a reassuringly expensive car. Staff exude an executive-soothing hush - it's the calmest (re)opening night I've ever been to.

In an attempt to get the party started I go for a Quo Vadis aperitivo (£6), a cava cocktail with Campari and clementine - delicious. All set, we considered the menu. Whitebait £6.20; rump £16: dishes aren't lingeringly described as much as bullet-pointed. Still, my brown shrimp on toast (£7) was a beauty worth lingering over, and the date's home smoked salmon (£7.60) came prettily circled with diced egg and onion.

For mains I had grilled Dover sole (£21.50), which meant an embarrassing pause as a waiter theatrically de-boned it in front of us. Still, this was sole perfection: flavoursome and delicate. The date got a lobster so huge it was a bargain at £25.

We loved the attention to detail: napkins embroidered with QV and still and sparkling filtered water. Yet even as I devoured a succulent £6.50 summer pudding I couldn't love Quo Vadis.

It means "Where are you going?" in Latin. If you're looking for somewhere with character, I'd "Vadis" elsewhere.

Quo Vadis
26-29 Dean Street, W1 6LL