Proper grub at Byron

The new baby from Gondola Holdings (Pizza Express, Ask, Zizzi) has slunk on to the scene with hardly a murmur - surprising given its heritage and plum position at the entrance to Holland Park.

Perhaps it's nervous of poor publicity but, if our visit is typical, it needn't be. 'Proper burgers' is the brand positioning (as I'm sure the Gondola pointy-heads would put it) and, with a nice juicy, medium rare, 21-day-aged, grass-fed Aberdeen Angus patty on soft white bun in front of me, who am I to argue?

The thing that sets Byron apart is attention to detail, from proper staff training, to bread baked by a proper (there's that word again) baker in the East End, to soft drinks that arrive in frozen glasses. Cheese toppings include Gruyère and Irish Cashel Blue; a dense, fudgy cheesecake doesn't taste like mass catering.

With its clean lines, plastic cows and colourful mural, it looks good, too. It's not 100 per cent perfect - clunky, overbattered onion rings, a lurid, sickly barbecue sauce - but what is? Better than most of the chains now infesting the high street (with the honourable exception of Gourmet Burger Kitchen and Haché) - look forward to one opening near you soon.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £35. 222 Kensington High Street W8. Tel: 020 7361 1717. Tube: High Street Kensington

Byron
222 Kensington High Street, W8 7RG