Promise you'll go to Vow

This review was first published in April 2000

#The current media obsession with all things mayoral seems to have rendered even my ES restaurant column worthy of political comment. In The Guardian, Catherine Bennett devoted virtually a page to reporting on it (not altogether favourably). But her implication that I always seem to review restaurants at the posh end of the scale ironically came in the same week that it was suggested I give Vow Thai a go. A stone's throw from my campaign office, it seemed the ideal place to try an affordable Thai meal with friends.

Situated on Cleveland Street, Vow Thai is a cosy restaurant which offers a largeish, tasty and affordable menu. It is popular - on my visit the two waiters were so busy that while my companions waited for 20 minutes for me to escape the clutches of London Transport, it proved impossible to get served a pre-meal drink.

Those who had been here before all wanted spicy fishcakes to start, which turned out to be a good choice, not least because of the light sweet chilli sauce. I was glad, however, that we also ordered the 'golden triangles' - chicken and prawns encased in won-ton leaves and served with plum sauce - as this meaty starter went down a treat. The extensive range of main courses was reasonably priced - only the chef's specials cost more than £6.50 - and there was a good choice of vegetarian dishes. I opted for Panang king prawn curry, which, although a little on the oily side, was thoroughly enjoyable thanks to the lime leaf and coconut combination in the sauce. Opinion was divided on the cashew nut salad, as the spiciness I found so attractive seemed to render it inedible for those with more conservative tastebuds.

Vow Thai is a classic student restaurant. The food is cheap and comes in good-sized portions, the decor basic and the management only too keen to move tables to accommodate large parties. Definitely worth a visit if you're looking for a budget meal in Central London - but don't expect the smoothest service in the world.

Vow Thai
53 Cleveland Street, W1P 5PQ