Starters are all stunners and we struggled to pick just two. We loved the summery salad of fresh peas, pea shoots, mint and braised ham hock (£6.50), and savoured Cornish sardines even more, their rich taste elegantly offset by a white bean, tomato confit, thyme and parsley salad (£7.50). A moist fillet of black bream (£14.50) didn't quite need its mountain of fennel, and my grilled halibut steak (£17.80) in buttered samphire was almost ruined by an overbuttery orange sauce. But the fish itself was top hole and good value.