Posh Italian is a very pleasant surprise

Early reviews of this grand old hotel’s new restaurant had me worried. "Cold, unatmospheric, expensive, intimidating and over-decorated" were among the comments, so we braced ourselves for a dining experience like an ambassador’s reception in purgatory.

First impressions confirmed our fears. The Lanesborough’s once cheery conservatory is now decked out in chilly greys and whites with severe stripes. However, the staff were so friendly that we quickly warmed to Apsleys. The sommelier even gave his seal of approval on our modest wine choice (around £10 a glass) with an expansive thumbs-up gesture.

My set menu — £24 for three courses — was so reasonable I splashed out on a hearty side of squash with piquant salsa verde (£3.50). The cuisine is rustic Italian from the Sardegna region. Feathers of wild boar prosciutto with courgette and sun dried tomato salad and pane carasau may have been far from a peasant dish, but it felt authentic, and the date’s wood pigeon ravioli with pancetta (£12) luxuriated like a drunken emperor in a Barolo sauce. The date found his main course of veal sweetbreads (£19.50) a bit "flat", but my southern Italian sausage was very flavoursome.

He dithered so long over his dessert selection that they gave him two for the price of one, so he could barely fit in the mini donut petits fours with our espressos.

Management has heeded the reviews, and it wasn’t just a complimentary limoncello that left us bursting with Italian sunshine.

Aspleys
Lanesborough Place, London, SW1X 7TA