Plenty of added zing

It may be a sign of the times, but from the outside, Indian Zing - a smart new restaurant that opened in June - looks very like an estate agency. The frontage is painted in one of those dark and reassuring colours that is very grown-up - perhaps it's a cunning plan to remove the rough edges from a name like Indian Zing.

Inside there is a dark, polished wood floor and the customary Indian artefacts. The tables are just about large enough and the chairs are comfortable. The chef-proprietor is Manoj Vasaikar, who got his first wave of admiring reviews when he was based over the Thames at Just India.

Vasaikar is not only a good cook, but also a thoughtful one and he acknowledges the need to blend India's regional recipes and traditional ingredients with modern techniques and presentation. The result is a long menu that lists plenty of unfamiliar dishes and some that nudge their way towards the dreaded fusion category - mango, mint and cucumber frappe anyone?

There are a dozen starters - dahi kachori with sprouted beans are delicious little pastries filled with a spicy mixture and topped with yoghurt. There's a mussel rasam - a sharp tamarind broth with mussels and curry leaves.

Or chapli kebab - this interleaves slices of lamb with slices of aubergine, with a subtle and intense spicing. The patrani macchi is a real star, a fillet of fish cooked with green herbs and coconut and rolled in a banana leaf.

There is even chicken peppercorn malai tikka - an up-market chicken tikka whose chicken pieces are marinated with green peppercorns and cheese. Order a few of these starters to share, add a couple of rotis and you will not be disappointed.

The main courses are also a delight. For once, there is a splendid vegetarian dish, tandoori artichoke and paneer in mahi khaliya sauce. This is a skewer from the tandoor that features chunks of paneer cheese with a decent chilli rub, baby artichokes and onions - and the gravy is heavy with cashew nuts and tomatoes. Very good eating.

There's a Malabar chicken curry (billed as chilli hot, but medium), with plenty of coconut milk, mustard seed and curry leaves. The dhansak is made with dill, pumpkin and lentils and has a good depth of flavour. The lamb rogan josh is rich, even though served off the bone.

A dish of avial - mixed vegetables with coconut, yoghurt and mustard seeds - is a triumph, with so many different textures and flavours. In each and every dish the kitchen gets the spicing just about perfect and this shows in the way that each meal has its own distinct personality. The deeply indulgent and buttery laccha paratha is worth a try.

Service is friendly and the drinks list includes a sensible selection of wines at affordable prices. The food at Indian Zing is a cut above the general standard, and in some instances very impressive. The only minor quibble is with the portion sizes, which could be viewed as a bit on the small side - but only when you are enjoying the food greedily enough to want more of it! Indian zing is what you get.

Indian Zing
236 King Street, W6 0RS