Plain things done properly

I keep being told what wonderful things Marco Pierre White has done to the old Wheeler's, just off Jermyn Street, so I was curious to see the results, though also anxious that I might bump into the great man himself.

I need not have worried. Marco was not there. In fact, after a sweet-looking, rather elderly couple left, my companion and I were the only people in the place, a pretty select crowd, even though the waiter assured us gallantly that at least 20 people had been in earlier that evening.

Wheeler's is a funny little building: imagine four narrow, charmingly decorated, old-fashioned Pullman railway carriages piled one on top of the other. Marco has given the place an appealing makeover. The walls are crowded with framed black-and-white photographs, there are pleasant banquettes, small tabletop lamps casting a warm glow and leather-covered chairs on the small landings in case you need a rest. He has, however, kept the staff much as I remember them - an endearing crew of old-style Spaniards called names like Pepe and Paco.

The concept is not unlike Marco's Parisian Chop House - plain things done properly - and I have to say that I like it. I had dressed crab, my guest had smoked salmon - both were good if unremarkable, but it was the impossibly thin toast that captured my imagination. There is something very decadent about toast that is nearly translucent. My grilled sole was fine, though a little small, served on the bone with a 'spine' of tartare. I love tartare sauce but also like watching the balletic de-boning of a sole taking place before my eyes. The accompanying pomme pur?e was a masterpiece.

Potato also featured on top of the exquisite Wheeler's fish pie. We finished up with a Wheeler's treacle tart - all the more entertaining for being served on floral crockery, doubtless calculated to evoke memories of prim seaside guesthouses. Despite this, I reflected that all this country house/mafia don stuff rather obscures the fact that Marco is still a good restaurateur.

Wheeler's of St James's, Duke of York Street, SW1 (020 7930 2460). Dinner for two with two glasses of wine, £100

Wheeler's
Wheeler's of St James's, Duke of York Street,, SW11