One for N1's party people

About 10 years ago I laughed all the way to the bottom of my pint glass at the news that the Scruffy Murphy's chain of jokey Irish theme bars had bought a Dublin pub and given it the thematic once over. It was proof positive that intellectual pygmies run the corporate giants of this world.

A decade later and this unfathomable fascination with all things Irish continues. Niall Donnelly, proprietor of the new Anam bar in Islington, tells me it's been a dream of his to open an Irish-style bar in London. I'm confused. I've been to Ireland and their style bars are similar to ours. They don't have shillelaghs nailed to the ceilings, and not all their customers are pluckmasters on the harp.

Donnelly, who likens himself to compatriot Oliver Peyton and, like Peyton, keeps his business affairs in the family by employing his sister, is rightly proud of his heritage. Irish stamps prevail throughout the design, and the carpet is emerald green.

Anam - Celtic for 'soul', apparently - is a small, two-floor venue boasting an attractive ground-floor lounge bar and a seemingly decadent basement bar where DJs spin a mix of disco, house and electro funk. A late licence will almost certainly ensure Anam's longevity as a happening destination with Islington's young-at-heart party people.

It's unusual, yet refreshing to see pints on sale in a bar of such aspirations, but Staropramen and Stella Artois aren't inspired choices. Bottled beers include Leffe Blonde (£3) and Tiger Beer (£3), along with the usual Becks and Corona (both at £2.80).

But this is unashamedly a cocktail bar, and if 'girly' drinks with pineapple, coconut and raspberry flavours float your boat, this is the place for you. There is little in the way of cocktails for those who like to recognise alcohol in their drinks, but the Irish Buck (Kilbeggan Irish whiskey with lemon, Drambuie and ginger ale) and the 1762 Old Fashioned (Tyrconnell Irish whiskey with sugar and orange bitters) come close to being 'manly' drinks. An average of £6 per cocktail shows some pricing restraint.

The short wine list steers clear of Irish vineyards, which is a shame as I'm sure the Irish would have provided some interesting finds. Still, you have to remember that this is a playbar, where people come to get drunk and are not necessarily uptight about what they drink.

The food? Well, there isn't any to speak of, save for the odd bowl of olives or nuts. This is a shame, because it was hunger pangs that forced me to go elsewhere, and just when I was getting into the groove of the seriously cool, laid-back atmosphere.

I will go back, as Anam is just about the most interesting bar to open in Islington this side of the millennium. Slainté, then, to the new Irish theme bar.

Anam
3 Chapel Market, N1 9EZ