Old world charm, new world prices

Wiltons' history goes back to 1742. At that time the illustrious chef Carême was not born and Wellington and Napoleon had not battled. I entered this august shrine of British tradition expecting a room full of red and dark oak with cobwebs, complete with pictures of ancestors peering down in disapproving manner. I wore my best suit and tie.

To my astonishment, as I entered, I met an old friend, Mrs Levy, who runs the front of house. She proudly talked me through the changes Wiltons has undergone. The dining room is quiet and elegant, not stuffy. I sat in one of the booths, which allowed me to have a good look at the people in the room. I must have been the youngest there and the only one not wearing a Savile Row suit. But I still felt comfortable. The staff were attentive and professional.

As expected, the offerings are quintessentially British, with all the best seafood, game and meat available. I ate excellent rock oysters, plump and fresh, washed down with a perfectly chilled glass of Chablis, Montée du Tonerre. Sadly, I then chose one of my favourite British dishes - potted shrimps. These were both dry and served too cold.

I couldn't help noticing two worlds unfolding in front of me. I smiled at two ladies sitting at different tables, one young and one old. The old lady was upright and cut her asparagus with a knife and fork. The young lady plucked the stems of asparagus off her plate with her fingers and lusciously put them to her mouth.

I asked for braised oxtail with root vegetables, but had to make do with peas instead of the veg (they were unavailable). The peas, however, were excellently cooked, well seasoned and fresh. The slow-cooked, boned-out oxtail was a well-practised dish. It was rich and melting and topped with a glazed potato purée. An excellent glass of Châšteau Marechaud, 2000 (Pomerol) showed good fruit and minerality with little tannin.

I ended the meal on another classic - sherry trifle. It did not disappoint.

Chef Jerome Ponchelle, a disciple from Michel Bourdin, has taken over the kitchen and brought great craft and experience. On leaving, I noticed that this offering from the old world came with new world prices - £75 a head.

Raymond Blanc is chef/patron of Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons.