Not so welcome at the Inn

Critics have been marvelling about the park-lodge design of Oliver Peyton’s new restaurant since it opened in spring this year, and it is clear to see why. Unpretentiously designed as a cross between a luxuriously large wooden log cabin and a smart cafeteria, it manages to give off a welcoming aura that everyone is invited to come and join in the fun.

Inside the décor is cool and smart, with a huge stainless-steel self-service area filled with chunky sandwiches, smoothies and cakes for people who fancied taking their lunch away for a picnic on the grass.

When we stopped by for lunch the weather was hot and sunny and the day booked off work so as you can imagine, the mood was buoyant. When we arrived to discover our month-old booking had not been registered, and were asked would we mind waiting half an hour, we obliged, despite being mildly miffed, and took a wander around the park to help build the appetite.

We came back half an hour later and were quickly shown to what my other half declared to be ‘the best seat in the house’ (and it was, right at the end of the long veranda that overlooks the lake) so our mood was again uplifted. We were starving, and ready to tuck in. But were left to wait 35 minutes before someone offered us so much as a drink, despite numerous attempts to catch the eyes of the young waiters. I don’t like to dish out bad criticism too freely, but this service was verging on the stroppy.

Eventually we ordered a basket of bread that (thank heaven) came in the size of huge doorstep chunks. They were promptly smothered in butter and polished off, and the ball finally began rolling.

I tucked into a starter of toast topped with crab and it was succulent, delicious and crunchy. My other half decided to splash out on half a dozen oysters which were ‘fresh and classically good’. For the main I tucked into a deceptively filling fish pie which I would heartily recommend. Filled with king prawns and large chunks of haddock with a deliciously smooth mash top it was almost impossible to finish — but not quite. My partner enjoyed suckling pig brought on a bed of mash and topped with a tangy apple sauce. He felt it was a very superior piece of pork and lapped up every morsel.

At this juncture, I am happy to report, our service took a turn for the better, with the arrival of a good Antipodean waiter who seemed to wake up the staff with his presence and looked after his customers with a lot more pride than some of his companions.

He brought us the cheese board which was rich, tasty and utlimately overwhelming. The strong and rich cheddar with the foully-smelling but deliciously-tasting goats cheese finally defeated us.

Ultimately the trip to Inn the Park turned out to be a wonderful afternoon — it would just have been that much more perfect if the staff were given designated tables to look after - and if they kept looking over at the customers sitting at them.