Not so welcome at the Inn

Critics have been marvelling about the park-lodge design of Oliver Peyton’s new restaurant since it opened in spring this year, and it is clear to see why. Unpretentiously designed as a cross between a luxuriously large wooden log cabin and a smart cafeteria, it has a welcoming aura inviting everyone to join in the fun.

However, when we arrived we soon discovered that the welcoming mat had been whipped from under our feet when our month-old booking had not been registered, and we were asked if would we mind waiting half an hour. We obliged (despite being mildly miffed) and took a wander around the park to help build the appetite.

We came back half an hour later and were quickly shown to what my partner declared to be ‘the best seat in the house’ (it was, right at the end of the long veranda that overlooks the lake) so our mood was again uplifted.

Inside the décor is cool and smart, with a huge stainless-steel self-service area filled with chunky sandwiches, smoothies and cakes for people who fancy taking their lunch away for a picnic on the grass.

With all this tantalising food on show coupled with the delay for our sitting, we were literally salivating as we awaited service. But were left to wait a further 35 minutes before someone offered us so much as a drink.

Eventually when the staff remembered that we were actually there to eat, we ordered a basket of bread that (thank heaven) came in the size of huge doorstep chunks. These were promptly smothered in butter and polished off within seconds.

I soon tucked into a starter of toast topped with Cornish crab mayonnaise and it was succulent, delicious and crunchy. My partner opted for half a dozen oysters which were ‘fresh and classically good’. For the main I enjoyed the deceptively satisfying fish pie. Filled with king prawns and large chunks of haddock with a deliciously smooth mash top it was almost impossible to finish — but not quite. Our other main was suckling pig brought on a bed of champ (a herb mash) and topped with a tangy apple sauce which again was highly praised.

Thankfully, after the mains our service took a turn for the better, with the arrival of a good Antipodean waiter who looked after his customers with more pride than some of his companions. He happily allowed us to move table when a few spots of rain started to land.

We finished off with the cheese board which was rich, tasty and utlimately overwhelming. The strong and rich cheddar with the foul-smelling but delicious goats cheese finally defeated us.

We washed it all down with a lovely bottle of Pinot Grigio, which at £25 was a tad on the expensive side but seemed tasty enough — and finished with a delightfully bitter espresso. Ultimately the trip to Inn the Park turned out to be a wonderful afternoon — but what a let down it was to have it nearly all spoiled by such a sloppy service.