Nostalgia reigns in a very British institution

When we arrived at Langtry's, nobody was there to greet us in reception. Had the restaurant actually opened? We walked in and found the reservations book at the end of an oak-pannelled corridor decked out with tea lights.

The absence of a maitre d' was disconcerting - it was rather like being on the set of Murder She Wrote. Langtry's is the former Knightsbridge home of actress Lillie Langtry, who lived here from 1892 until 1897.

The restaurant, which adjoins the Cadogan Hotel, is small, cosy and romantic, with soft lighting, comfy armchairs and banquettes.

My companion was particularly impressed by the soft carpet as we were all spared the sound of clacking heels. Langtry was the mistress of Edward VII, and her spirit lives on in the breast-shaped glass butter dishes which adorn each dining table. Photographs of her hang from the wall and menus are illustrated with seductive images of her.

The old- fashioned English virtues are extended to the menu. It is a celebration of British cooking with all the ingredients sourced from around the UK (Orkney scallops, Morecambe Bay shrimps, Scottish Border pheasant, Aberdeen smoked salmon and so on). The venue had a less successful incarnation recently as the French restaurant Mes' Anges, so it's good to see it has gone back to British basics. The menu is excellent - diverse and appealing - and I was tempted by many of the dishes.

The prawn cocktail, the beef fillet and chocolate mousse could be construed as a witty satire on a Bernie Inn menu. The signature Langtry prawn cocktail entailed prawns in tempura, avocade mousse and a Marie Rose ice cream. It tastes a lot better than it sounds.

The prawn cocktail, our waiter explained, came with a mystery challenge. It's never a good idea to stress your customers and my heart sank. Thankfully, the challenge was not too taxing - it came in a cocktail glass which made it tricky to get all the ingredients onto one small spoon.

The beef tea starter was redolent of invalids and the Crimean War. It sounds distinctly unglamorous and unsexy, but it turned out to be the most theatrical dish, entirely in keeping with the surroundings.

A sliver of beef was presented in an empty glass bowl with a softpoached quail's egg perched on top. The portion seemed measly but the waiter poured a delicious, healthrestoring broth into the bowl and the dish miraculously swirled into life. The glass brought out the clarity of the soup but the overall effect was slightly marred by a chip on the side of bowl.

Langtry might have been able to fit into her corset after this starter, but would have spilled over after what followed. My grilled beef fillet was tasty but the flavours were too strong to be truly harmonious. The peppercorn mash overwhelmed the meat and struggled with the blue cheese butter for supremacy. There was too much overegging and not enough restraint.