No kinks in Clissold Arms

As a west Londoner, trekking to Muswell Hill felt so off-puttingly "oop north" I might as well have been dining in Yorkshire. But folk from Las Vegas to Liverpool have made regular pilgrimages to the Clissold Arms, site of The Kinks' first gig. Fans might be cheesed off but there's barely a trace of Kinkiness about its new reincarnation as a grand-scale gastropub and it's certainly worth the Tube ride to Finchley.

Situated down a long avenue that seemed to leave the London grime behind, its twinkly carriage lamps lend it the romantic air of a coaching inn. It was a lovely day so we opted to sit outdoors. Outdoor service was attentive, and the menu was a treat. Bursting with healthy British seasonal produce my friend and I were thrilled to find so many light "girlie" choices alongside the standard steak and fat chips.

To start, my mate nibbled a £5.50 fennel and cucumber salad with mustard dressing and poached quail eggs (note the plural) there's no scrooging here). I crunched on a £6.50 salad of baby carrots and green beans with pistachio dressing and Stichelton - an unpasteurised pretender to Stilton. For main, I had wild Scottish halibut (£17.75), and my friend tucked into a rich pot-roast guineafowl (£14.95). Both great. We then retreated inside for puds. The All Bar One-style decor failed to impress, but we soon forgot about it when dessert arrived - a luscious lemon meringue pie (£5), and a groaning board of Neal's Yard cheeses with home-made chutney (£7). A real hit.

The Clissold Arms
115 Fortis Green, N2 9HR