New nosh for Clerkenwell's creatives

You've got to be a brave bunny to open a massive restaurant in nosh-soaked Clerkenwell, a place that sprouts restaurants and Oz Clarke-lookalikes in equal quantities.

Perhaps it's down to the area's numerous creative industries: all that brain activity is hungry work.

But Nick Male, ex Conran and Peyton outlets, has taken on the challenge; his spartan barn of a restaurant - formerly Bar 38 - aims to be all things to all people. You want organic porridge for breakfast? Fast lunchtime sarnie? Swish dinner date? A takeaway loaf? Whatever: it's here.

We were excited at the thought of bread from the in-house bakery but less impressed with its spongy, lightweight reality. After this shaky start, things looked up: a sludgy, fudgy onion tart and pearly, fresh Devon crab (why not from more local waters, though?) were good starters.

My halibut was a pristine piece of fish, sadly raw at its core. Brilliant salsa verde and a hummock of teeny, tasty brown shrimp saved its bacon. And expertly confit-ed duck came with sonow braised peas and lettuce.

With lunchtime sandwiches costing no more than Prêt - if you don't like what's on offer, you can create your own - this could end up being the crowd-pleaser it sets out to be.

The Larder
St. John Street, London, EC1M 4NU