Vaibhav Rustagi, head barman at the Gilt Champagne Lounge in Belgravia's Jumeirah Carlton Hotel, said: "This is the mother of all champagne cocktails. Its key is the contrast between the bubbles and the aftertaste of the bitters and the sugar. We only use 15ml of cognac in the cocktail, which is 10ml less than a normal shot, because it is so strong - it would otherwise kill the taste of the champagne.