More modern Italian

Where to go for modern Italian food.

BLACK PEPPER 133 Lavender Hill, SW11 (020-7978 4863).

They have a great Italian wine list here - unusual, varied, hand-picked. If there are enough of you it's fun to work through several picked by the sommelier to match each course. The food is on the rustic side of modern, and there are plenty of old favourites to marry up with the poncier menu items. They play Eros Ramazzotti, which is always a joy to your Italian kitsch-lover. Ave per head £25.Nearest station: Clapham Junction.

OLIVO 21 Eccleston Street, SW1 (020-7730 2505).

This was the first modern Italian I ever went to, some 12 years ago now. The departure from lasagne and antique waiters was a shock back then. I was taken to Olivo by an Italian who owns a restaurant on Lake Como, who raved about the food, and still does. Try the spaghetti with sea urchins or the stuffed calamari. Owner Mauro deserves a medal for convivial hosting. Ave per head £35. Nearest Tube: Victoria.

THE GREEN OLIVE 5 Warwick Place, W9 (020-7289 2469).

The prices are sometimes frowned upon, and I've heard mixed reports about the service, but the quality of ingredients in the nouvelle-sized portions is extremely good. The atmosphere is on just the right side of special, feeling like it's a treat but informal enough not to have to watch your behaviour. Ave per head £35. Nearest Tube: Warwick Avenue.

ARANCIA 52 Southwark Park Road, SE16 (020-7394 1751). Arancia has a unique menu using unusual ingredients including dandelion, salsify and garlic leaves. They are well off the beaten track which may explain why they ignore trends while seeming fresh and new. The prices are inexplicably low for the quality, and they'll rustle up a bolognaise in a trice for the conservatives and the starvin' kiddies. Chocolate semifreddo is their signature dish. Ave per head £25. Nearest Tube: Bermondsey.