Modern comfort food at its very best

The flyer for this new Clerkenwell venture told us "a pantry is a cupboard which houses the necessities of life".

The idea of being shut in a crumb-filled cupboard didn't sound appealing but we fell in love with this stylish cafè.

"It's very New York isn't it?" said my friend as we cooed over the interior. A more formal restaurant is opening upstairs in a few weeks, but this diner is perfect for ladies (and gents) who brunch.

A £7 Japanese Bloody Mary set the tone perfectly. Everything here is delicious-looking. If you've tried Providores in Marylebone, chef Anna Hansen's previous and popular venture, you'll know what I mean. We gave up the struggle to pick two starters and chose three.

Our top choice was a plate of light chorizo, date and feta fritters with tamarind yogurt (£4.50). It was delicious, and so were the truffled artichoke, tarragon and parmesan crostini (£3.50). But we weren't quite as wowed by the slow-cooked octopus (£5) which was slightly gelatinous.

We also ordered bread and scoffed the lot because it was so warm and bouncy. It's probably best not to come here if you're in a rush. The service, though friendly, is chilled-out to the point of leaving you in Siberia. But the mains were worth the wait.

A signature dish of sugar-cured prawn omelette (£6.80) came with a jammy smoked chilli sambal. My friend picked at her £7.50 feta and spring onion waffle with avocado and tomatoes but I think she was saving room for pud.

If I could eat nothing else but chocolate liquorice mousse with brittle choccie wafer, whipped cream and tamarillo (£6.50) for the rest of my days, I'd die a happy old woman.

The Modern Pantry
47-48 St John's Square, EC1V 4JJ