'Michelins make prima donnas'

He has cooked for more heads of state than most, and received numerous accolades, but there are some things masterchef Michel Bourdin will simply not entertain. Namely, "prima donna chefs".

After 26 years at the Connaught Hotel, the much lauded Bourdin is retiring, and has taken the opportunity to launch a savage attack on the "elitist" Michelin star system - despite being awarded four himself.

Bourdin said: "The problem today is that we are not aubergistes anymore. We do not give comfort and food to the guests and we do not do it with enough enjoyment. More and more chefs do it for the money and self-esteem. The Michelin star system at the moment is too elitist - it creates chefs who are prima donnas."

With 46 years of experience behind him, Bourdin is well qualified to make such criticism, only days before he turns his back on the culinary world for a quieter life in Provence with his wife and children.

Disappointingly, though, Bourdin who will be replaced by his protÈgÈ Jerome Ponchelle, has declined to name the chefs he criticised, adopting instead a relatively diplomatic stance.

He told the Evening Standard: "True, I did say there are too many prima donna chefs in gastronomie, but it would unfair to say exactly who I am thinking of.

"To be honest, there are so many that if I were to begin naming them I wouldn't know where to start. Very few chefs are modest enough to avoid falling into the trap of the elitist Michelin system. As soon as they get a star it goes to their head - et voila."

These are hardly the words of a bitter man for Bourdin knows only too well the glory a Michelin star affords its chefs.

He was awarded his first in 1975 and two years later he was the only chef in the world with four stars - two for the Connaught's Restaurant and two for the Grille.

He said: "I didn't make a big issue of it at the time. I just don't like over exposing myself. Her Majesty the Queen is a celebrity but does not tell everyone. I have the same philosophy. My place is in the kitchen, serving my customers. I really don't think I am a big head."