Metropolitan goes multicultural

You can get anything you want on Edgware Road, a 24/7 strip whose spiritual home is somewhere east of Beirut, but finding a Full English is not so easy.

Hurrah, then, for the Metropolitan - a glorious tutti frutti-coloured shrine to the trad caff's Art Deco heyday, where knickerbocker glory and raspberry jelly with ice cream await good children who eat up their corned beef salad or sausage, egg and chips. I order a 'seedy cheese roll' (sic) and chat to the charming Cypriot owners.

A lease extension means the 'Good Food Good Taste' promise on a scalloped pelmet, above a classic vitriolite counter, is valid for years to come. It is surely a sign of our multicultural times, however, when indigenous becomes the new exotic.

Metropolitan Cafè, 340 Edgware Road W2. Tel: 020 7723 7942. Tube: Edgware Road

Metropolitan
340 Edgware Road, W2 1EA