Meaty treats on a caring menu

The Rosendale isn't your typical pub. First, there's the ingredients. "The bread and butter is made in-house, we smoke our own fish and are planting our own garden". Furthermore, they say: "We dictate the feed of our own pigs at the woodland farm in Essex."

Second, it's by Mark and Sharlyn van der Goot, the team behind The Greyhound at Battersea, so expect high standards. Third, it's in the middle of nowhere, unless you live 15 minutes from West Norwood station. It's worth the trip though. You can get burgers at the bar, but instead head for the chandelier-lit dining room.

Here the originality begins with "sausage bread", with an ice cream scoop of new butter. My starter was a citrus-rubbed swordfish of consummate rareness, which I followed with spiced ostrich fillet (£16.50). It was like the tenderest beef with a rich gamey aftertaste, and it came with a small dish of beef bobotie (with a texture like stuffing) that you turned on its head so it tumbled over the meat. Delicious.

My date went for a winningly soft Barbary duck breast, with summer cabbage, pancetta and foie gras (£16). One duff note was the too-gelatinous "trio of chocolate" (£6). But that was soon forgotten and we left texting our fellow West End-ites to get down here.

The Rosendale
Rosendale Road, London, SE21 8EZ