Malaysian that fits like a favourite shoe

Malaysian food is so totally now, darling. You've Suka at the Sanderson hotel and Haiku on Burlington Place, near the offices of Vogue, so it's no surprise to hear that the revamped Satay House is a fave with shoe designer Jimmy Choo.

Despite a sleek makeover, this street food joint (est. 1973) is still a great, buzzy local restaurant for Paddington, attracting a vibrant mix of families, dates, business diners and grumpy rich OAPs. Having lost our booking, a beaming, unapologetic waiter led us down from an unmemorable tight-fit first floor to the gorgeously refurbished basement with a big flatscreen telly it's almost impossible not to stare at.

"Everything is special!" beamed our unstoppably smiley waiter, as we scoffed spicy Keropok prawn crackers and wrestled with a list that seemed to offer an endless variety of outrageously wellpriced, slightly similar dishes. We opted for Set Menu A (£26 a head), to free us from the chore of choosing. Nothing on the menu was that special.

But from the flavour-bursting lamb broth to the heaped bowl of Nasi Goreng Telur (Malaysian special fried rice), Udang Galah Berempah (big prawns fried with peppers), Ikan Masak Tomato (fragrant fish fried in sweet and sour sauce) and Kacang Boncis Goreng (crunchy French beans with soya and chilli), it was clear that these Malaysian favourites have been honed to lip-smacking standards by years of practice. As in many Asian restaurants, the only duff note was dessert: banana encased by a thick layer of batter.

Despite the modern makeover, the warm, casual atmosphere remains. Eating at Satay House is like slipping into a comfy old shoe. Needless to say, I'll be hot-footing it back there.

Satay House
Sale Place, London, W2 1PX