Making a good impression

The waiter - whose only qualification for the gig appeared to be his Frenchness - poured a steel jug of pastis over my prawns and set them alight. Gave me something of a turn. Not as much as when I actually ate the things and could only taste liquorice and raw alcohol.

The date's 'salade des Landes' was a poor travesty of this noble salad. No gizzards, no green beans, just blue cheese - why? - and chilly, pan-fried foie on some damp leaves. This was all served with bread tasting like elderly supermarket toaster loaf.

Main courses: my duck had the slightly rank aftertaste of a beast I discovered I'd rather have suffered the burger.

A butch knuckle of pork sweated sour grease on to its bed of surprisingly good, rosemary-scented 'pommes salardaise'. An impressive cheese trolley was accompanied by a family pack of Jacob's crackers, no less.

Le St Julien does a good impression of a brasserie. But if you want warmth, charm and cooking with an authentically French accent, head for Comptoir Gascon up the road.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £95. 62-63 Long Lane EC1. Tel: 020 7796 4550. Tube: Farringdon

Le Saint Julien
Long Lane, London, EC1A 9EJ