Lo effort at Lee Fook

In 2002 Ringo Lo moved his restaurant from Westbourne Grove to Surbiton in much the same way that he had previously left behind premises on Queensway to relocate to Westbourne Grove.

However, the gastronomic gap between Queensway and Westbourne Grove is pretty small when compared to the difference in styles between W2 and Surrey.

Lo is a charismatic and well-regarded Chinese chef with a love of fresh seasonal ingredients and a particular talent for fish cookery, but Surbiton is Surbiton so his main menu lines up old favourites in pragmatic fashion.

Crispy aromatic duck, sweet-and-sour pork, chicken with cashew nuts - the takeaway menu even lists curry sauce as a side order - but there are scattered signs of more ambitious cooking - fresh whole lobster, frogs' legs with chilli and spicy black bean sauce, and stuffed 'three treasures'.

As a general rule, whatever the cuisine and wherever the restaurant, eating what the chef wants to cook usually guarantees you freshly made, seasonal dishes and the personal attention of the kitchen.

This is particularly true of Lee Fook and to eat well you should leave the precise composition of your meal to Ringo Lo. Give him a budget and a few days warning, then turn up and enjoy your feast - £30 a head sounds extravagant but will allow Lo to indulge his passion for fish and seafood and you'll get the benefit.

How does this sound? The first course is a large steamed scallop, maybe a little overcooked but sweet and dressed with a combination of garlic and glass noodles. Next a lettuce wrap dish - but this time with chopped, fresh lobster as the filling. This dish works quite well, although combining the ultra-sweet hoisin sauce with the delicate lobster meat is not so successful, and somewhat bizarrely, a handful of frozen peas creep into the equation.

The next dish was an outright winner - large prawns, stuffed with a chunk of wind-dried sausage presented impaled on a spear of asparagus. Very good, the bland sweetness of the prawn balancing the tang of the sausage.

The supporting cast of large mushrooms and dark-green greens with garlic sauce is also delicious. Then it's on to a dish of sole served two ways (stir-fried fillet and deep-fried trimmings) with crunchy green beans, before a final 'run in' of fried beef and special fried rice. The beef is notably rich and dark while the rice dish is good for filling any remaining corners in your appetite.

Given that you eat your way through five or six courses and a parade of 'luxury' ingredients (scallops, lobster, prawn, sole), the £30 price tag doesn't seem too outrageous, even if it ends up bolstered by a service charge and drinks bill. The only caveat is a faint residual memory that the flavours in Lo's cooking were a bit more assertive in the heady days of Westbourne Grove. Dishes like the Surbitonian scallops would have benefited from a little more zap in the dressing.