Let's hear it for Hollywood!

Hurrah! The Hollywood Arms opened in mid-June, and the food is smart enough to restore your faith in gastropubs.

Yes, everything may be squeakily new looking, but the place has been done up in some style and is a cunning mix of clubby and pubby. Granted, the prices are full-on (starters just above and below £6, mains from £8.50 to £14.75, desserts a blistering £5.50), but we are deep within the posh centre of Chelsea and houses around here cost as much as a Premiership footballer.

There are three real ales on offer, and an unassertively priced wine list. The service is finding its way, but friendly. The starters are wellpresented, combining elegance with the simple and seasonal. A big bowl of summer vegetable and white bean soup with pesto had plenty of fresh veg and was full of flavour. A ham and parsley terrine comes with toast, chutney and a decent pile of fresh green leaves. The ham is juicy and not over-salty, marbled with a creamy parsley-flecked in-fill - a grand piece of charcuterie. Marinated artichokes, baked tomatoes and herb salad is delightful - again good leaves and good dressing.

Turning to the main courses, so far 'mousseron omelette, Lyonnaise potatoes and mixed leaves' is this year's best lunch dish. The wellmade omelette is a plump cushion filled with fairy ring mushrooms, but teaming it with proper pommes Lyonnaise is pure genius. The rest of the main courses seem equally enlightened. Penne, broad beans and shaved Pecorino is simple and good. Rougie duck breast, beetroot, bacon, parsley and shallot salad - perfectly cooked duck. Then there's a cheese plate. It's expensive at £6.75, but the cheeses are excellent - Golden Cross, Roquefort, Mull Of Kintyre and Durrus served with chunky home-made oatcakes and chutney.

Pud lovers will warm to a pannacotta served with cantucci biscuits and raspberries. The pannacotta is unctuous and just wobbly enough. This cooking puts many snootier restaurants to shame. You have to hope that when the Hollywood Arms is wildly busy, they can maintain these high standards.

Hollywood Arms
45 Hollywood Road, SW10 9HX