Lazy days in the Water

Imagine that someone was reading this description to you: 'Glistening Waters,' they murmur, 'is a riverside Caribbean bar-restaurant where you will discover the exotic herbs and spices for which Jamaica and the Caribbean are renowned.' It's hard not to conjure up a picture of lazy days and drinks with too much rum in them, a cross between a beach party and a James Bond movie. What is surprising is that despite the naff name, and the fact that it's in Brentford, Glistening Waters very nearly delivers the dream.

The restaurant is new and bright. The decor and the chairs are modern. There is a huge fish tank. The food is well spiced, nicely presented, and not too pricey but - and it's a 'but' that knocks the venue's rating back to two stars - the service is slow. There is a warning on the menu that everything is freshly cooked and that there might be a wait of 20 minutes, but that estimate turned out to be wildly optimistic. When the dishes finally arrive they do so in a slow procession. At one table, the first diner had been tucking in for a good 10 minutes before the last person was served. With just 24 seats, there really is no excuse for the kind of lengthy pauses in between courses that rip the fun out of the evening.

This is a pity, because the food is fine. The trad starters get sympathetic treatment and dishes are spicy without being over-the-top. Saltfish fritters have that strange chewy, crunchy texture and come with a dollop of mango chutney - a combo that works well. The ackee and saltfish dish has wellbalanced flavours and the look of scrambled eggs.

The mains, when they arrive, are also good - curried goat comes in a basket made from a roti, which is a tad pretentious, but the meat is tender and the dish works. The accompanying rice and peas is spot on. A dish billed as a Jamaican chicken curry is rather good - if you like creamy, gentle, coconutty sauces. The Calypso fish comes on a 'sizzler' iron dish and looks terrific. The jerk chicken is well spiced and can be served either as part of a large mixed salad or as a hot dish with rice and peas. The side dishes are worth noting - there is something splendidly nursery food-ish about boiled green banana, and then there is callaloo, the rich, irony, super greens. Just a forkful makes you feel healthier.

Glistening Waters has an unaggressively priced wine list, and plenty of moody drinks, ranging from cocktails to Carib beer or soursop. What it doesn't have is any idea of how important service can be in the making or breaking of an evening out. If you find yourself hungry in Brentford, Glistening Waters is an option, but perhaps you should take a newspaper, or even a short novel, to keep yourself occupied in between courses.

5 Ferry Lane, Brentford, Middlesex (020-8758 1616) Dinner for two with wine, £50