Keeping it short and sweet

If you're going to open your own neighbourhood restaurant, it's a good idea to keep things simple. That's what Robin Priestley has done with his little corner bistro.

The menu is short and uncomplicated, keeping choices down to the kind of things you really want to eat when you've just nipped out for your tea. Portions are generous. An ice-cream scoop of rough chicken liver patè would have fed both of us.

Still, it was so good - silky and brandy-laced - I managed to wolf it. Tagliatelle with mussels, garlic and chilli had great flavour but were on the uncooked side of al dente.

My roast rump of lamb was terrific, as were the homemade chips. It came with a squidgy cake of pommes dauphinoise and buttery Savoy cabbage. Sadly, a beef and ale pie hadn't had its crust baked as an integral part of the dish; a square of puff pastry plonked on top of a stew, however good, ain't my idea of a pie.

Service is sweet and friendly, bread is homemade, wines are reasonable and food prices a steal. We sat in the lower half of a strange double-decker arrangement - like eating on a Pullman car. Odd, but fun.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £70. 110 St Johns Hill SW11. Tel: 020 7223 8708. Rail: Clapham Junction