Keeping it local

Sometimes a local restaurant becomes so good that it imperceptibly becomes a destination in its own right, even to the point when the loyal locals who gave the place a start can no longer get a table.

In its latest guise, Putney Bridge is a very rare example of this process in reverse. The restaurant perches on the edge of the Thames just upstream of the bridge itself.

It's a magnificent purpose-built building with curved lines and a lot of glass that was designed to cope with possible future flooding, and an innovative passive ventilation system that lets the dining room 'breathe'. It's a very beautiful structure that has won a hatful of architectural awards.

But, unfortunately, this resto never really achieved its full potential on the culinary front, despite winning a Michelin star in its last incarnation. Then, during the spring of 2005, it was out with the smart French restaurant and in with the local Thai when the site was bought by the Thai Square group - which already has another nine restaurants in and around London with a large flagship place by Trafalgar Square.

The folk behind Thai Square know what they are about - they haven't wasted a vast amount of time and money, but they have added a few Thai touches to the decor. There's an impressive display of temple bells and a few strategic statues. However, regulars will not find the place alien in any way. Is that why it is so very, very busy?

The downstairs is still a bar and the cocktail list now includes a few more South-East Asian influences, but the upstairs is now a very busy restaurant - you'll need to book even mid-week. It seems that 'the Putneys' warm to accessible Thai dishes a good deal more than they care for Michelin-starred grub.

Service is from charming, elegant and rather harassed Thais who have a slight tendency to buckle somewhat under the pressure of numbers. The kitchen also seems to squeak under the workload and there can be a wait for dishes. Never mind, the impressive river view is still impressive, even in the gloaming.

The starters tend to be small and elegant - sai oua (spicy northern sausages) are small, spherical and not wildly spicy; tod mun pla - that old favourite, Thai fishcakes - are very sound (why are Thai dishes only a few commas away from sounding like the names of characters in a trendy children's television series?).

'Cee, Klong, Moo, Tod and Kratian' (either puppets or spare ribs) are good and dry. And the butterfly prawns are crisp and dry. The chilli dipping sauces are distinguished by being good and hot.

Main-course portions are on the small side. Pla neung manau is a steamed fillet of sea bass which comes to table a touch overcooked. Of the curries, the gang phet ped yang (roast duck curry - rich with coconut milk and lychees) is more successful than the gang kiew wan (a green curry with plenty of pea aubergines).